Nail extensions have come a long way from the thick, obvious acrylics of decades past. Today, there are multiple extension systems available, each with its own benefits and drawbacks. Whether you want added length, strength, or a canvas for elaborate nail art, understanding your options will help you make the best choice for your lifestyle and nail goals.
What Are Nail Extensions?
Nail extensions are artificial enhancements applied over your natural nails to add length, strength, or both. Unlike press-on nails or nail strips, professional extensions are customised to your nail shape and desired length, and they last for weeks with proper care.
All extension systems share a common goal: to create a durable, natural-looking nail that can be shaped, painted, and designed to your preferences. The differences lie in their composition, application method, removal process, and overall look and feel.
Acrylic Nail Extensions
Acrylics are the original nail extension system and remain popular for their durability and versatility. They are created by combining a liquid monomer with a powder polymer, which forms a paste that hardens when exposed to air.
How They Work
Your technician dips a brush into the liquid monomer, then into the powder, picking up a bead of product. This bead is placed on your nail and sculpted into shape before it hardens. Forms or tips may be used to create length. Once shaped and cured, the surface is filed and buffed smooth, then finished with polish or gel colour.
Pros of Acrylics
- Extremely durable and hard-wearing
- Easy to remove by soaking in acetone
- Widely available at most salons
- More affordable than some other options
- Can be maintained with regular infills
Cons of Acrylics
- Strong odour during application
- Can look thick or unnatural if poorly applied
- May cause nail damage if incorrectly removed
- Less flexible than natural nails, may break instead of bend
Hard Gel Extensions
Hard gel (not to be confused with gel polish) is a tough, durable product that is cured under a UV or LED lamp. It offers a lighter, more natural feel than acrylics while still providing significant strength.
How They Work
Hard gel comes in a pot or tube and is applied in layers, with each layer cured under a lamp. Like acrylics, forms or tips can be used to create length. The product is self-levelling, meaning it naturally spreads to create an even surface. After curing, it is filed and shaped to perfection.
Pros of Hard Gel
- No strong odours during application
- Natural, lightweight feel
- Slightly flexible, reducing breakage
- High-gloss finish without additional top coat
- Hypoallergenic formula available
Cons of Hard Gel
- Cannot be soaked off with acetone—must be filed off
- Requires more skill to apply correctly
- May be more expensive than acrylics
- Not available at all salons
Polygel Extensions
Polygel is a hybrid product that combines properties of both acrylic and hard gel. It was developed to offer the best of both worlds: the durability of acrylic with the lightweight feel and easy application of gel.
How They Work
Polygel comes in a tube and has a putty-like consistency. A small amount is placed on a form or nail tip and shaped using a brush dipped in slip solution (a liquid that prevents sticking). Once shaped, it is cured under a UV or LED lamp. The product does not air-dry, giving technicians more time to perfect the shape.
Pros of Polygel
- Lightweight and flexible
- No strong odours
- Extended working time for precise shaping
- Stronger than hard gel
- Can be soaked off (easier than hard gel)
Cons of Polygel
- Newer technology—fewer trained technicians
- May be more expensive
- Removal can still be time-consuming
- Product quality varies between brands
Dip Powder Extensions
While dip powder (SNS) is often used as an overlay on natural nails, it can also create short extensions using nail tips. This system involves dipping nails into coloured powder over a special resin.
How They Work
A nail tip is applied and shaped. Then, layers of resin and powder are built up by dipping the nail into the powder or brushing it on. Each layer adds strength and colour. Finally, the nail is sealed with a top coat.
Pros of Dip Powder
- Quick application
- No UV lamp required
- Durable finish
- Wide range of colours
- Soaks off with acetone
Cons of Dip Powder
- Not ideal for very long extensions
- Hygiene concerns with communal powder pots
- Can be difficult to shape precisely
- May be thicker looking than other options
Choosing the Right Extension for You
Consider these factors when deciding on an extension type:
- Lifestyle: Active lifestyles may benefit from the durability of acrylics, while office workers might prefer the natural feel of hard gel.
- Natural nail condition: Weak or damaged nails may do better with gentler options like polygel.
- Desired length: Very long nails require the strength of acrylics or hard gel.
- Budget: Acrylics are typically most affordable, while polygel tends to be pricier.
- Sensitivities: Odour sensitivity or allergies should guide you away from acrylics.
- Maintenance preferences: Consider how easy removal and infills will be.
The best extension type is ultimately the one that suits your needs and is applied by a skilled technician. Do not be afraid to discuss your options with your nail professional—they can help you choose based on your specific situation and goals.